BGA IC Graphics Chip Repair Machine

Hot air BGA IC Graphics Chip Repair Machine with functions of replacement, removal, desoldering, soldering and remounting SMD components. We can dispatch the machine within 7 days after receiving orders.

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Description

Automatic BGA IC Graphics Chip Repair Machine

Model: DH-A2

1.Application Of Automatic

Solder, reball, desoldering different kind of chips: BGA,PGA,POP,BQFP,QFN,SOT223,PLCC,TQFP,TDFN,TSOP, PBGA,CPGA,LED chip.

2.Advantage of Hot Air Automatic BGA IC Graphics Chip Repair Machine

3.Technical data of laser positioning automatic

Power	5300W
Top heater	Hot air 1200W
Bollom heater	Hot air 1200W, Infrared 2700W
Power supply	AC220V± 10% 50/60Hz
Dimension	L530W670H790 mm
Posilioning	V-groove PCB support, and with external universal fixture
Temperature control	K type thermocouple. closed loop control. independent heating
Temperalure accuracy	±2℃
PCB size	Max 450490 mm, Min 2222 mm
Workbench fine-tuning	±15mm forward/backward, ±15mm righ/left
BGAchip	8080-11mm
Minimum chip spacing	0.15mm
Temp Sensor	1(opional)
Net weight	70kg

4.Structures of Infrared CCD Camera BGA IC Graphics Chip Repair Machine

5.Why Hot air reflow BGA IC Graphics Chip Repair Machine is your best choice?

6.Certificate of Optical Alignment Automatic

UL, E-MARK, CCC, FCC, CE ROHS certificates. Meanwhile, to improve and perfect the quality system,

Dinghua has passed ISO, GMP, FCCA, C-TPAT on-site audit certification.

pace bga rework station

7.Packing & Shipment of CCD Camera Automatic

8.Shipment for Split Vision Automatic BGA IC Graphics Chip Repair Machine

DHL/TNT/FEDEX. If you want other shipping term, please tell us. We will support you.

9. Related Knowledge of Automatic Infrared BGA IC Graphics Chip Repair Machine

DIY Printed Circuit Board

Prepare the developer and develop!

During the sensitization process, we will prepare the developer. A pack of developer weighs 29g, but only about 10g is needed. Prepare the developer using a 1:20 ratio of developer to water (it is important to use a plastic container!).

Pour the developer into 200ml of water, stir, and shake the container until the developer is completely dissolved, with no remaining particles. Then, take out the sensitized circuit board and remove the transparent film. The board should look like this...

Slowly place the board into the developer (do not throw it in!). After a few seconds, you will notice that the photosensitive film on the non-circuit areas begins to turn into a greenish smoke and dissolve. At this point, gently shake the plastic container until the circuit lines become clearly visible, as shown in the image below.

The lines should be well-defined, and the dark green photosensitive film on the non-line areas should be fully dissolved. Wait another 3-5 seconds to ensure the development process is 100% complete!

Note: It is strictly prohibited to reuse the developer. Please dilute the used developer 20 times before disposing of it into the city's sewage system.

Start etching!

Weigh the appropriate amount of ferric chloride blocks, then prepare the etching solution by mixing ferric chloride blocks and water at a ratio of 3:1.

Important: Ferric chloride is corrosive. Do not handle it directly with your hands. Clean the tweezers or any other tools used for handling ferric chloride immediately. If you get it in your eyes, rinse with plenty of water and seek medical attention as soon as possible. Dissolve the ferric chloride blocks in water, which will take a few minutes as it dissolves very slowly.

When the solution turns brown and no solids remain, the etching solution is ready!

Note: Ensure that there are no impurities in the etching solution, especially grease, which can disrupt the etching process. You could also try adding a few nails to the water to speed up the etching.

Slowly place the photosensitive plate into the etching solution (ideally, the circuit should float on the liquid surface, but if the board is too small, it may sink to the bottom).

Avoid moving the container during the process, and do not touch the board with anything! Doing so can have serious consequences!

After an hour, check the board (if that seems too long, increase the concentration of the etchant!). Use a plastic bag as a glove to carefully remove the board (be sure not to touch the circuit lines!). Inspect the non-line areas to ensure no metal remains. If metal is still visible, soak the board for another 30 minutes and check again. If you're unsure, use a multimeter to measure the resistance of the non-circuit areas. If the resistance is infinite, the etching is complete.

Congratulations! You've successfully made your first photosensitive circuit board!

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